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17. How to Select a Good Shampoo and Conditioner
Keywords
ShampooConditionerHair typeFrizzHair productsHair careScalp careHair flow diagramsHair guidelinesHair cosmeticsIntroduction
Healthy hair is manageable, shiny, with no frizz and good growth rate [1]. Dermatologists are frequently asked by patients which shampoo and conditioner they should utilize, whether or not they have scalp disorders [2–4].
Shampoos and conditioners are hair care products designed to clean, moisturize, and restore flexibility and manageability of hair. Most hair care products contain more than 40 ingredients in their formulations [2, 3]. This chapter discusses the most common ingredients of shampoos and conditioners and suggests how to select a hair care product according to hair type and scalp condition.
Shampoos
Shampoos are designed to clean the hair and the scalp [1]. They contain detergent molecules called surfactants, classified according to the electric charge as anionic, cationic, and amphoteric (zwitterionic) or nonionic [1, 5–8].
The hydrophobicity of the hair is the main characteristic responsible for the integrity of the cuticle [1]. The natural lipid that is responsible for the hair hydrophobicity is the 18-methyleicosanoic acid of the epicuticle (18-MEA) [1, 9]. The 18-MEA is removed by alkaline chemical treatments such as hair dyes, bleaching, and chemical relaxers, leading to dry, frizzy, hydrophilic hair [8]. Although shampoos cannot remove the 18-MEA from the epicuticle, they may remove structural free lipids and proteinaceous matter from the hair, leaving the intercellular regions more susceptible to rupture [9]. Shampooing and everyday grooming actions are the main cause for mechanical hair damage, especially when applied to an overprocessed sensitive hair [9]. Although it is not possible to completely restore the 18-MEA and the keratin molecules of the damaged shaft, hair cosmetics try to add lubrication, seal the cuticles, neutralize the electrical charges, fill in the gaps and cracks, and minimize friction between fibers, which is the main cause of hair damage [1, 8–11]. According to the FDA regulations, ingredients are listed in descending order of predominance [12].
Classification of the surfactants
Group | Example | Characteristics | Commercial name | Indication | Contraa |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
I: Anionic | Ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate | Deep cleansing, clarifying | Sulfate shampoo | Oily scalp, hair with build-up, deep cleansing | Bleached hair, damaged hair, frizzy hair |
II: Cationic | Cetrimonium chloride, polyquaternarium | Antistatic agent | Softener | Usually combined with anionic surfactant to minimize frizz | None |
III: Nonionic | Fatty alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol | Minimal cleansing | Co-washing | African hair, sensitive hair | Oily hair, individuals who regularly use silicone-based products |
IV: Amphoteric | Cocamidopropyl betaine and coco-betaine | Mild cleansing | Low-poo | Chemical-treated hair, African hair, sensitive hair | None |
Sensitive hair may benefit from sulfate-free shampoos (group IV surfactants) but also from co-washing (conditioner-washing) [5, 13]. However, the use of a mild surfactant implicates a possible build-up due to insoluble residues such as insoluble silicones and mineral oils that are deposited under the cuticle scales [1]. For this reason, the concomitant use of co-washing (group III surfactants) with insoluble silicones and mineral oils is not recommended. Co-washing alone needs a clarifying shampoo every 15 days to remove build-up and residues [5]. On the other hand, oily scalp needs surfactants with deep cleansing properties of group I [6]. They may increase frizz after rinsing, especially to dry or chemically treated hair. Therefore, shampoos containing group I surfactants will need the use of conditioning agents with lubricating and anti-frizz effects [6]. Except for the clarifying shampoos that are designed to strip any build-up, the regular shampoos are a two-in-one model that contains conditioning agents such as silicones, polymers, hydrolyzed peptides, and cationic ingredients [13–17].
Conditioners
Conditioning agents for hair have no effect on growth and cannot affect cellular repair. Rather, they can only temporarily improve the cosmetic appearance of damaged hair and must be reapplied as removal occurs [5, 6]. Conditioners can improve the hair shaft aspect by increasing shine, decreasing static electricity, improving hair strength, and protecting against ultraviolet radiation [6, 8].
1. Lubrification: cuticle (high MW a ) |
Polymers: Quaternary ammonium groups Silicones (water-soluble and water-insoluble) Water-soluble: light conditioner Insoluble: deep conditioner |
Oils (vegetable better than mineral) |
Fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol) |
2. Fillers: cortex (low MW) |
Hydrolyzed amino acids derived from vegetable sources |
Polymers |
Fatty alcohols |
3. Antistatic agents/anti-frizz (cuticle and cortex) Positively charged molecules (add substantivity) |
Hydrolyzed amino acids (positive charge) |
Cationic agents (positive charge) |
Polymers: quaternary ammonium groups Fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol) Silicones (water-soluble and insoluble) Water-soluble: light conditioner Insoluble: deep conditioner |
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