Summary and Key Features
- •
Dead Sea magnesium salts have a variety of skin-rejuvenating benefits.
- •
Sea mud is used in facial masks and body wraps.
- •
Brown algae contains antioxidants called phlorotannins.
- •
Red algae mycosporine-like amino acids are natural photoprotectors.
- •
Astaxanthin is a carotenoid found in microalgae.
- •
Chitosan is a film-forming agent that enhances wound healing.
- •
Marine collagen is found in cosmetics and nutritional supplements.
The ocean is a valuable resource for biologically active natural compounds. Over 12,000 chemicals from marine sources have been identified, many of which have been found to have medicinal and therapeutic benefits. The use of marine-based skin care dates back to ancient times when the value of bathing in mineral-rich water and sea mud baths was first discovered. It is said that Cleopatra was so enthralled with the rejuvenating benefits of Dead Sea mud and water that she urged Mark Anthony to conquer the region so that she could ensure an unlimited supply. Today marine ingredients are an emerging category of actives found in cosmeceuticals. These ingredients are plentiful, natural, and ready to be harvested from their natural habitat. Important marine resources include algae, fungi, lichen, sea sponges, bacteria, crustaceans, fish, seawater, and mud. In this chapter we will review some of the more commonly used marine ingredients and the science behind how they can help improve skin’s appearance.
Seawater
The composition of seawater varies based on location. The salinity of most seawater is 3.5% while the salinity of Dead Sea water is 7–10 times that of other oceans. Seawater contains a variety of salts, minerals, and trace metals that have beneficial effects on the skin ( Table 9.1 ). The majority of seawater in the world contains primarily sodium salts while the Dead Sea boasts the highest concentration of magnesium salts. Magnesium salts have moisturizing properties, enhance barrier repair, increase antioxidant production, and are known to be antiinflammatory. Dead Sea water also contains calcium chloride, which gives it a slippery feel and contributes to its skin-smoothing effects.
| Salt | Beneficial Effect(s) |
|---|---|
| Sodium chloride | Emollient, improves skin barrier and skin hydration |
| Potassium chloride | Preserves barrier function |
| Magnesium chloride | Increases skin hydration, reduces inflammation, inhibits cell proliferation |
| Increases antioxidants, reduces skin wrinkling and roughness | |
| Calcium chloride | Emollient, skin smoothing |
Dead Sea balneotherapy has been used to successfully treat a variety of arthritic conditions and inflammatory skin disorders. In a study of subjects with atopic dermatitis, Dead Sea soaks significantly improved skin hydration, roughness, and redness compared with tap water–treated controls. Dead Sea balneotherapy has been shown to be a safe and effective treatment for patients with psoriasis, particularly when combined with Dead Sea phototherapy. In vitro studies have demonstrated that Dead Sea magnesium salts have antiproliferative effects on skin cells that contribute to the therapeutic effects of Dead Sea water on psoriasis.
The skin-rejuvenating benefits of Dead Sea salts and minerals have also been confirmed. In a 4-week comparative study of 20 females, a gel containing a 1% Dead Sea mineral solution decreased skin roughness as measured by profilometry by 40.7% compared with the same gel without minerals, resulting in an average reduction of 27.8%, while those using the control gel without minerals or antiaging additives had only a 10.4% reduction. More recently, Dead Sea Osmoter Concentrate (AHAVA, Dead Sea Laboratories Ltd., Israel), composed of a high concentration of Dead Sea water and green tea, grape seed, and olive leaf extract, was tested on human skin organ culture and shown to mitigate UVB-induced stress. The test Dead Sea Osmoter Concentrate (DSOC) preparation reduced UVB-induced apoptosis and protected against light-induced reduction in proteasome and aquaporin 3 expression. The same DSOC was formulated into a serum that was applied to test subjects. The test serum resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration as measured by corneometry at 0.5 and 8 hours after application. The authors suggest that this proprietary Dead Sea concentrate may be of value for improving skin’s appearance and protecting skin from sun damage. In a separate study, DSOC was combined with three Himalayan extracts forming a patented complex (Extreme Complex, AHAVA Dead Sea Laboratories Ltd., Israel). The Himalayan ingredients included Tibetan goji berries ( Lycium barbarum ), moss lichen ( Cetraria islandica ), and Himalayan raspberry fruit extract. This complex was then formulated into a day cream and a night cream containing other antiaging ingredients. The finished products were tested on human skin organ culture and found to mitigate UVB-induced tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production. There was also a reduction in UVB-induced apoptosis owing to the potent antioxidant activity of the patented complex. In addition, human subjects using the test creams showed a reduction in periorbital wrinkle depth by PRIMOS at 4 weeks and an increase in skin hydration compared with untreated controls.
Sea Mud
Sea mud is composed of organic and inorganic portions. The inorganic portion is rich in minerals that reflect the composition of the sea from which it is derived. The organic portion is primarily humic acid and comprises debris from decaying plants and animals. Pelotherapy refers to the use of mud wraps or mud packs that are generally warmed before being applied to the skin. Pelotherapy has been used widely to treat arthritis and other joint problems.
Sea mud is a popular cosmeceutical agent. Sea mud is used in spa and at-home treatments including facial exfoliators, masks, body wraps, cellulite treatments, and body toners. The skin benefits of sea mud include hydration, restoration of skin pH, and improved circulation. Sea mud has been touted to improve active acne and have antiaging benefits. An evaluation of sea mud from Korea showed that humic acid from the organic portion of the mud was responsible for water-retaining properties while the minerals in the mud demonstrated significant antiinflammatory activity. The minerals included sodium, magnesium, and zinc. Thus both the organic and inorganic substances may provide skin benefits. A commercial product containing Dead Sea mud, Dead Sea water, zinc oxide, aloe vera extract, provitamin B 5 , and vitamin E (Dermud, AHAVA Dead Sea Laboratories Ltd., Israel) was tested on UVB-irradiated organ culture skin. Topical application of Dermud was shown to have antioxidant, antiapoptotic, and antiinflammatory properties and reduce the harmful effects of UVB irradiation.
Algae Extracts
Algal species are among the most plentiful marine resources. Macroalgae, or seaweed, are multicellular organisms that come in red, green, and brown varieties. Macroalgae living in shallow water are exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and contain important endogenous photoprotecting compounds. These compounds also provide photoprotection to other marine animals that consume them. Microalgae are an essential component of the Earth’s ecosystem. Microalgae are unicellular organisms that exist alone or in chains or groups and are capable of photosynthesis. They are rich in biologically active compounds that are of medicinal and nutritional value. Algae extract is a popular cosmeceutical ingredient that contains a plethora of compounds that are beneficial for skin health and appearance.
Brown Algae
Brown algae have a unique composition and contain some of the most important functional ingredients found in the sea ( Table 9.2 ). Phlorotannins are marine phenolic compounds found in brown algae that absorb ultraviolet light in the 280–320 nm range. Phlorotannins including eckol, dieckol, and phloroglucinol are potent antioxidants and antiinflammatory compounds. In addition, these phlorotannins are known to inhibit protein glycation. Eckol and dieckol from the Ecklonia species show strong inhibition of the nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB) and activator protein-1 (AP-1) transcription factors that are upregulated following UV exposure. AP-1 activation causes a reduction in collagen production and an increase in the metalloproteinase enzymes that break down collagen. NF-κB increases inflammation that contributes to skin aging. Accordingly, phlorotannins may be helpful in maintaining collagen homeostasis and mitigating skin aging. Phlorotannins reduce melanogenesis by inhibiting tyrosinase and thus act as skin lighteners. With this myriad of biologic activity, phlorotannins have significant potential to prevent and treat photoaged skin.
Related posts:
Stay updated, free articles. Join our Telegram channel
Full access? Get Clinical Tree
