Chapter 26 Dry Skin
Dry skin is an area where cosmeceuticals play an important role both in enhancing the efficacy of prescription medications and in preventing disease relapse. In a world where the medical and social benefits of cleansing are well recognized, dry skin can result both from endogenous and exogenous causes. No matter what the cause, the appearance, functioning, and feel of dry skin can be effectively improved through the use of cosmeceuticals. Table 26.1 organizes the cosmeceutical actives such that the dermatologist can select which ingredients might be most beneficial in a moisturizer for a given patient. The table has been broken into the subgroups of occlusives, humectants, stratum corneum modifiers, and emollients.
Table 26.1 Cosmeceutical actives for dry skin
| Cosmeceutical | Effects on skin physiology | Patient selection comments |
| A: Occlusive moisturizing | ||
| Petrolatum | Rapidly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by 99% | Most effective for extremely dry skin, greasy, decreases scaling appearance |
| Mineral oil | Reduces TEWL by approximately 40% | Less greasy than petrolatum, does not cause acne |
| Lanolin | Mimics human sebum | Common cause of allergic contact dermatitis, not used in hypoallergenic formulations |
| Lanolin alcohol | Similar to lanolin, but branched molecule provides smooth skin feel | Excellent at smoothing skin surface, common cause of allergic contact dermatitis |
| Liquid paraffin | Provides protective film, reduces TEWL | Excellent hand and foot moisturizer for hand dermatitis and dyshidrosis |
| Carnauba wax | Provides protective film somewhat thinner than liquid paraffin | Same as liquid paraffin, naturally derived ingredient |
| Dimethicone | Reduces TEWL without greasy feel | |
