Acid Peel



Fig. 1
Soft degreasing with 70% ethanol with a cotton pad



If any area of dermatitis is found red and pain is produced during alcohol degreasing, it is advisable to postpone the peeling procedure or, if the main area to be treated is sound and healthy for the peel, this peeling can be done on localized areas, without pass over the irritated areas, to prevent hot spots and PIH.

This peel may be applied with a soft cotton (Fig. 2), a soft brush, or a folded 4 × 4 gauze sponge, in a crescent order of penetration. The soft cotton application delivers a thin layer of solution and has no increased penetration by friction. The soft brush , such as sable-hair brush or goat-hair brush, is delicate but delivers a thicker layer of the solution onto the skin. This subtle difference occurs because hair has limited liquid absorbing properties, while a cotton ball acts as a sponge. The use of gauze sponges is indicated for increased penetration by mild to moderate friction. If heavy friction is performed, it may be advisable to consider switching to a mild deep peel, such as phenol 30–35% with croton oil 0.4%, which will provide better penetration to the dermis.

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Fig. 2
Peeling procedure with 40% pyruvic acid in balanced water-ethanol solution. First session with cotton ball, with an even thin layer of the solution, without friction. A fan is held by the patient to prevent airway irritation. Her eyes are closed during the whole procedure to prevent ocular irritation by volatizaton

Pyruvic acid must be neutralized or washed once it produces erythema, which usually occurs after 3–5 min, so the solution must be applied in a fast manner, full face, or applied in each cosmetic unit and neutralized at a time, which usually produces more controllable uniformity of penetration, because perioral, periocular, and cheeks present faster penetration than the forehead. So if a full-face procedure is intended, I usually start on the forehead and nose. Then the peeling solution is applied on the lateral cheeks, medial cheeks, perinasal area, perioral area, and then periocular area/neck.

For safety reasons, this peel is typically neutralized with 10% sodium bicarbonate solution or face washing in a sink with copious amounts of water. This neutralization may prevent superficial damage. The neutralization starts at the most erythematous area, which is usually periocular or perioral, but in some well-prepared patients, the forehead may achieve erythema by the end of the application and must be neutralized first. In exceptional cases, no neutralization is chosen for stronger effects.

Full medical control of the neutralization is advisable; therefore, a 10% bicarbonate solution is prepared in a plastic disposable water cup where dry cotton wipes are soaked before the application on each area of the skin for neutralization (Fig. 3). Bicarbonate spray may be used and rinsed with a soft cotton ball or cotton wipe. If water is used as a neutralization solution with a wipe, it is advisable to have more wipes soaked in the water and to use them in a series of new fresh-water wipes. After complete removal of the solution, it is advisable to ask the patient wash the face in a sink to ensure maximum removal of the acid. (Fig. 4).

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Fig. 3
Neutralization with 10% sodium bicarbonate solution with a large and soft cotton wipe


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Fig. 4
Face wash in a sink to remove excess pyruvic acid. Note that this method does not neutralize the solution but causes dilution of the solution



Choosing the Strength of Pyruvic Acid Solutions


Before choosing the concentration of pyruvic acid solution, it is mandatory to be aware of the solution vehicle. Although ethanol solutions may provide stronger peeling, aqueous solutions are more stable, less volatile, but with formation of lactic acid. Lactic acid may present some benefits on hydration and depigmenting the skin. So the author recommends the use of formulas in “balanced” hydroalcoholic solutions (40–60% ethanol).

It is advisable to always start with 40% pyruvic acid solution, which is safe and also effective. Increasing the concentration to 50% is advisable only if the patient had no complaints during the first peel and would like stronger results.

Figures 5, 6, 7, and 8 show expected results with pyruvic acid peeling for acne, acne scars, and oily skin.

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Fig. 5
Usual result after 10 days of one session of 40% pyruvic acid. Note the anti-inflammatory effect on acne papules and pore reduction


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Fig. 6
Series of weekly pyruvic acid peels. First session was performed with 40%. Second session was performed with 50% pyruvic acid


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Fig. 7
Series of weekly pyruvic acid peels. First session was performed with 40%. Second session was performed with 50% pyruvic acid

Mar 5, 2018 | Posted by in Dermatology | Comments Off on Acid Peel

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