Acid Peel




© Springer International Publishing AG 2018
Maria Claudia Almeida Issa and Bhertha Tamura (eds.)Chemical and Physical ProceduresClinical Approaches and Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology2https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-16805-0_1


Retinoic Acid Peel



Heloisa Hofmeister 


(1)
Pontificia Universidade Católica do Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, RJ, Brazil

 



 

Heloisa Hofmeister


URL: http://www.heloisahofmeister.com.br


Abstract

Chemical Peels may be defined as “controlled wounds” of the skin made by the dermatologist to multiple purposes. They are classified as superficial, medium, and deep according to the depth of penetration of the chemical solution. The deepest the peelings, the best results and the greatest range of complications. Superficial chemical peels are useful procedures to enhance the appearance of the skin with fast results and little or no downtime. They are appropriate to all skin phototypes. Retinoic acid is a well-established agent in the treatment of acne from the 1960s and photoaged skin, and it has been used for this purpose since the 1980s. Photoaged skin is characterized by wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores, laxity, and loss of brightness, among other alterations. For the last decades, retinoic acid has been used in higher concentrations for superficial peelings as an effective and safe tool for the dermatologist. This chapter will drive you through the stages and techniques of this peeling step by step based on my 30 years of personal experience and medical literature.


Keywords
Superficial peelingTretinoinRetinoic acidCollagen enhancingRejuvenation



Introduction


The development for the treatment of photodamaged skin has been enormous in the last decades. New concepts and better understanding of the aging process caused huge changes in the way dermatologists can treat their patients. Better equipments of lasers and lights, radiofrequency, ultrasound, 3D rejuvenation and volumization, botulinum toxin and their new targets, lifting sutures, and collagen enhancers among others are new tools always being renewed and reinvented. But one procedure remains unchanged, always the same since ancient times. Peelings actually have been increasing in number as a procedure in the last years. According to the Plastic Surgery Statistic Report (2014) of the American Society of Plastic Surgery, 1.2 million chemical peelings were performed in 2014 in the USA with an increase of 7% from 2013 to 2014. It is becoming more and more popular. It can renovate layers of cells and cause neocollagenesis. Superficial peels can bring back bright and clear skin in just few days. They are relatively simple procedures and inexpensive for dermatologists. Best results are achieved with a series of applications at short intervals.


History of Retinoic Acid Peels


Retinoic acid or tretinoin has been used for the treatment of acne for many years because of its comedolitic effect. It was been used for the treatment of actinic comedones (Kligman et al. 1971), for naevus comedonicus (Decherol et al. 1972), and for acne aestivalis (Mills and Kligman 1975). In 1983, Cordero published the first South American paper after observing unexpected improvement of periorbital wrinkles in patients that were been treating actinic comedones (Cordero 1983). The dosages he used at that time were 0.005–0.01%, with good and reproducible results and without the so-called “retinoic effect” that became so popular years after. In 1986, Kligman published the histopathological evidences of its rejuvenating effects in an article and in a special supplement of our Blue Journal, the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (Kligman et al. 1986). It became the best and the most popular agent for rejuvenation of the skin and for the treatment of solar damage, and it is still the best agent for those treatments. In the 1990s, it began to be used as a peeling agent when associated with 35% trichloroacetic acid medium peel resulting in a more uniform frosting of the skin and shortening the post-peeling recovery time (Brody et al. 2000). At that time emerges the retinoic acid peels for various indications.


Mechanism of Action




“The mechanical action of the peeling, even when limited to the epidermis, is able to stimulate regeneration via pathways in the dermis that are not totally understood” (Fischer et al. 2010)

We do know that the mechanism of action is characterized by thinning and compression of the stratum corneum, reversal of epidermal cells atypias, dispersion of melanin in the epidermis, stimulation of dermal deposition of collagen, increased deposition of glycosaminoglycans, and neovascularization (Yokomizo et al. 2013).

Retinoic acid has the property of making neocollagenesis and cellular renovation accelerating the cellular turnover of keratinocytes. It is comedolitic and a depigmenting agent, as it inhibits tyrosinosis and TIRP-1. There are also other mechanisms associated with the activation of nuclear retinoic acid receptors (RARα, RARβ, and RARγ) (Baldwin et al. 2010).

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Mar 5, 2018 | Posted by in Dermatology | Comments Off on Acid Peel

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